A bit sad to say but for me the most appropriate answer is "used to be". I follow this manga almost from the beginning, I liked it a lot but now it has changed and I have changed as well. Anyway I see too much dragging in the arcs, Luffy has become Jesus, the other SHs are left in a corner, every arc there are 100 new characters who drag things way way too long while stuff that could be both interesting and important is totally neglected (see Wano and almost no focus on swords, Ryuma etc.). Also fake tension everywhere, just look at those annoying fake deaths.
I find myself reading really fast the chapters, maybe I don't even read them some weeks, I just go look in the spoiler section to see the circus, it is way more entertaining than the manga and I find that circus already old and biting its own tail..