wano is a very good arc for me. Onigashima has its flaws but it's still a huge and enjoyable battle like we never had in one piece, except in marineford.
I really liked in wano :
- the introduction chapter
- the Japanese landscapes
- the time travel twist
- the introduction of kaido and the first defeat of luffy
- the legendary flashback of oden
- the epic arrival of luffy, kid and law
- the return of jinbei
- robin getting a real fight
- jinbei getting his first 1vs1
- zoro getting one of his 3 best fights, against king ( zoro vs mr1 remains the best )
- roofpiece which is probably one of the most spectacular battles in one piece
- the adv coc pu
- a fantastic highlight for law, kid and killer ( the chapter where he breaks hawkins ass is one of my favorites of the whole work ). I'm so glad to see these guys shine and get some great achievements
- nice secondary antagonists, i think about king, queen, ulti, kanjuro.
- cpo in action
- lunarian's lore
If I had to summarize very briefly what I hated:
- udon
- the sumo part
- tama and the smiles
- the chapter where big mom gets run over
- the numbers
- JACK'S TREATMENT and the shameful off screen of his battles, the first one against the sulongs army on the roof and the second one against inuarashi
- sanji vs queen which is a shitty fight
- fake deaths, the biggest flaw of one piece